Sarawak en Sabah

© Dirk Deckx (1995)

6. BA KELALAN

...beautifully situated in the middle of green hills and rainforest, it's an ideal place to come at ease and a real relief after a long and exhausting trek. We decide to stay here for two days.
From Ba Kelalan it's possible to take a flight to Lawas or in case of a full airplane take a jeep.
On the horizon we see some army tents and before entering the peaceful village of Ba Kelalan we have to show our passports again. The soldiers turn out to be very understanding...in front of them are three exhausted guys and immediately they offer us a bottle of cold tea.
They don't seem to care about permits and show us the way to the coffee-house where we can buy cold beers and soft drinks. Of course Philip, Tony and Stewart gladly join us before saying goodbye.
Before they leave us, we give them some extra medicines.

Accommodation :

"The Green Valley" lodge is the only place where foreigners can spend the night. It's right in front of the tiny airport. Rooms are irreproachable clean and cozy and cost 10 RM per person. Toilet and shower are to shared. A noisy generator provides the electricity. They turn it off at 9 PM. There's even an electric washing machine to clean the dirty clothes.
The total bill for three people and two nights : 200 RM (included the use of the washing machine, meals and drinks).

Airport :

Only rarely a plane doesn't show up, the landing strip is of such good quality that, even with heavy rainfall, planes are able to land.
When a plane is about to arrive (daily around 9.30 AM), you'll find a nice, sociable atmosphere around the landing strip. It's easy to make contact with the locals.
Seats were already booked in Bario. Usually it's no problem to secure some seats in Ba Kelalan because a plane seldom gets full. Just see to it that your name is written down on the passengers list at the MAS office beside the Green Valley Lodge. Tickets are not necessary !
A single flight to Lawas costs 46 RM only (+5 RM extra tax for eventual overweight).

LAWAS :

...is nothing more but a starting-point to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. Spending the night there is superfluous because the city has nothing to offer. There are several possibilities to get to Kota Kinabalu : airplane, bus or taxi. Sad to say there's only one direct bus at 7.30 AM.
A plane costs 47 RM but seems too easy-going.

- Alternative nr. 1 : taxi to city-center (2 RM), then a bus to Merapok (5 RM), further a bus to Sipitang (3 RM) where you'll find connection to Beaufort (5 RM) and finally from there another bus to KK (5 RM).
*Total price = 20 RM* (per person)

- Alternative nr. 2 : Taxi all the way ! First to the city center (2 RM) where the driver possibly will pick up more passengers to fill up his cab. Then further to Sipitang (1O RM), take another taxi here for the last traject to KK (18 RM).
*Total price = 30 RM* (per person)

So taking a taxi costs only 10 RM more, but it's considerably faster and you'll be in KK before dark.
On the way the border with Sabah is crossed. This means...stop at the immigration office for a new stamp in your passport !