Sarawak en Sabah

© Dirk Deckx (1995)

7. KOTA KINABALU

...with 200.000 inhabitants the heart of Sabah and certainly worth a visit. Indeed if Poreng Hot Springs and/or Kinabalu Park are in your schedule, you are obliged to book accommodation in KK.

Accommodation :

It's not so easy to find low-budget double rooms, because most inns have dorms with 4, 6 or more beds.

- Bilal Hotel : situated in the Segama Complex, Blok B. It's owned by Indians and has a restaurant downstairs. The staff is friendly en trustworthy. They inform us about their renovation-plans before long. Rooms are spacious and clean.
A double room costs 30 RM but it's no problem to use a room with three if one doesn't mind sleeping on the floor. In this case the price is 35 RM.

- Farida's Bed and Breakfast : it's a pity it's too far away from the city-center (about 4 miles). It's a peaceful place with lots of facilities. Double rooms are available (16 RM p/p).

Curiosities :

- Philippine Market : During the day it's a nice opportunity to hunt for cheap souvenirs, here you can smooth your bargaining skills ! In the evening the setting sun provides a fascinating color-circus. You shouldn't miss this ! Hundreds of food-stalls let you choose between all sorts of seafood, rice-dishes and other fried tidbits.
Without any doubt this evening-market, against the seashore, is the most romantic and cozy part of the entire city.

- Sabah Museum : In the surroundings of the main building you'll find some traditional houses. The main building itself teaches the visitor the history of Kota Kinabalu and Borneo. Native artifacts, archeological findings and flora and fauna exhibitions make the whole very well worth a visit... entry is free !!

- Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park ...is represented by 5 undefiled small islands, Pulau Gaya, Pulau Sapi, Pulau Manukan, Pulau Mamutik and Pulau Sulug. These islands are surrounded by magnificent coral-reefs/beaches and for this reason they decided to make it a national park.

...Manukan is the best choice for snorkeling adventures and it provides many facilities like a restaurant, bar, bungalows (terribly expensive), diving-or snorkeling equipment for rent, shop, etc... The reef is easily accessible and many colorful fishes will keep you company. Entry however is not free : 2 RM p/p.

To visit one or more islands, just take a walk along the dike behind the "Hyatt Hotel" in KK. Lots of private boats are waiting for customers and soon young boys will try to catch you for a trip. Bargaining heavily is necessary to agree a reasonable price. Sharing one boat with others is always the best solution. A good price for a visit to two islands is for example 45 RM (from 11 AM tot 4 PM). Half is paid at departure, the rest is settled when you arrive back in KK safely.

Nightlife :

There are not many pubs in KK worth a visit but "Rocky Fun Pub & Cafe" on Jalan Gaya may be a good choice. It's some kind of café-disco, very popular among the younger generations. Drinks are outrageous expensive.

Restaurants :

- Port View Seafood Restaurant : delicious meals, crowded and rather expensive.

- Kedai Kopi Seng Hing : in the Sinsuran Complex Blok B offers a special prawn-mee soup at noon. Excellent quality but very (!) spicy and that's something the writers of Lonely Planet ought to have mentioned in their book.

- Sedco Complex : "The place to be"...at night many tables are placed outside. There's a wide variety of foods to choose from, especially seafood (choose from several aquaria). It's a lot cheaper here.
Beer ladies carefully watch your glass and fill it up when it is half empty.
In case it should start to rain, they cover the entire place with a huge awning all in a matter of minutes.

Sabah Parks Office :

...in the environs of the Sinsuran Complex, close to the Philippine Market. It's necessary to hop in to arrange accommodation in Kinabalu Park and Poreng Hot Springs. It's a good idea to fix this a few days till a week before leaving KK. Bookings are made with a modern computer system and are to be paid at once :
-Kinabalu park : 3 nights in the Old Fellowship Hostel : 30 RM p/p and 1 night in the Laban Rata Rest house : 25 RM p/p.
-extra tax : 9.75 RM.
-Permits to climb Mt. Kinabalu, incl. guide are to be arranged in the park itself.