Sarawak en Sabah

© Dirk Deckx (1995)

10. KINABALU PARK
(Poreng Hot Springs and Mount Kinabalu)

At 7.30 AM the bus stops in front of our guesthouse and we painfully have to say goodbye to the Tan family. The bus takes us to Ranau (3 hours) and costs 18 RM (weekend), on weekdays they ask 15 RM.
Once in Ranau is not so easy to find transport to Poreng Hot Springs. Taxi's have to be chartered and cost 20 to 25 RM. Everywhere we ask for a minibus and finally we find one. The driver charges 5 RM p/p.

Poreng Hot Springs :

...is about 27 miles away from the Park's Headquarters and known for its hot water-springs. Unlike our situation, it's better to visit these springs AFTER the climbing of Mt. Kinabalu to give the poor muscles some relaxation. Some say that the steaming water with its sulfur smell has healing powers. The open-air tubs in the middle of a beautiful flower- garden are freely accessible for public and in weekends it can be unpleasantly crowded. Originally they were designed by the Japanese during WWII, but the wooden constructions are replaced by more modern ones. For those who respect privacy, it's possible to rent a bungalow with private bath or Jacuzzi. Especially after an exhausting trip to the Kinabalu top, such a private Jacuzzi is by no means to be sneezed at (20 RM per hour). One tub can be shared with three adults.
A room with two 'ordinary' tubs costs 15 RM per hour.

Accommodation :

- Poreng Hostel : to be booked in advance in KK, very clean, 8 beds per room, 10 RM p/p.

Of course a visit to Poreng is incomplete without experiencing the Canopy Walk, a kind of surging air bridges. These bridges can be used to walk from one treetop to another at 100 ft above the ground. There are some great views over the surrounding jungle but people with fear of heights better keep off. To enter those Tarzan bridges you need cash of course, 2 RM + 5 RM for every camera. Some criticism is at place here, it's finished before you realize and photographic master-pieces are not to be found here. Those 5 RM are slightly exaggerated.
For the ones who like to walk, there are several trails leading to the 'Bat cave' or the 'Waterfall'. The name 'Bat cave' sounds more impressive than it really is and we didn't see one bat.

In the souvenir shop they sell excellent books about Sarawak and Sabah.
One day is more than enough to survey the area.

Kinabalu Park Headquarters

To get to the Kinabalu Headquarters, we have to charter a minibus or a taxi. After some negotiations we pay 40 RM for a minibus. In the Park itself, everything is nicely organized, signs are everywhere. It's not a bad idea to stay here for several days because some alternative and adventurous trekking along jungle trails are worth the consideration. Flora and fauna in this area are really fascinating and should bring in some beautiful pictures. Especially insects, birds, flowers and sensational plants draw the attention of many a lover of nature.

Accommodation :

- Old Fellowship Hostel : 3 nights, 10 RM p/p per night, 10 beds per room and usually full.
Wherever you book, most rooms have several beds and are usually totally full. For the ones who like privacy, there are the more expensive hotels.

Restaurants :

There are two eating-places :
1. in the 'Administration Building' : offers the largest and best choice (payable).
2. in front of the headquarters : rather poor but has a very cozy terrace with nice view on Mt. Kinabalu.

Possibilities in the Park :

As said before, outside the "big climb", there are several alternative possibilities.
--A slideshow is projected in the Administration Building every day at 2 PM. It's mainly about the mountain and the impressing flora and fauna around it. This show is a good preparation for the trekking.
--Also on a daily base at 9 AM, noon and 3 PM you can join a guided walk in the Mountain Garden and enjoy a great collection of flowers and plants, among which some rare species of pitcher plants and orchids.
--Several alternative trekkings are possible, all trails are perfectly indicated. At the headquarters they can provide a basic map. One of the tougher trails is called the "Liwagu Trail". Combined with some shorter routes it takes a whole day. In case of rainy weather you should reckon with leeches but in the souvenir shop they sell effective leech-socks for 6.50 RM.

This trail shows the rainforest at its best ! We start at 7.30 in the morning and see the sun-beams contrast with the condensing foliage. In spite of the high-season we met nobody on the way. Sometimes the trail disappears in the bushes, in this case the map will bring the solution.

The Liwagu Trail starts all the way up to the Power Station (4 hours), here we take the junction to the Bukit Ular Trail, Mempening Trail and Silau Silau Trail. The road automatically leads back to the headquarters. This trail combination takes one day. Food and drinks shouldn't be forgotten.