Sarawak en Sabah

© Dirk Deckx (1995)

11. MOUNT KINABALU (13.450 ft)

Before heading for the top, one has to arrange a climbing permit and a compulsory guide at the head office at the entrance of the park. We settled our things a day before because the same morning we most certainly had to stand in line. There are lots of fellow climbers trying to arrange their papers. The administrative fuss in the early morning may get quite enervating. There's plenty of time the day before.

-Permit : 10 RM p/p
-Guide : 50 RM for three persons, 56 RM for five (you can arrange a small group yourself)
-Obligatory insurance : 10.50 RM for three people.

Superfluous luggage can be placed in a locker the day before, it's free of charge.

Day one :
7.30 AM : We take a minibus to the Power Station (6.000 ft) for 2 RM p/p. It's also possible to walk, but the road is asphalted and boring. Taking the bus saves 30 minutes.
8 AM : Hike to Laban Rata Rest house. About 40 other trekkers join us. The trail is marked and there are plenty of rest-spots where you can fill up your drinking-bowl. The first day is not an easy one because hundreds of artificial steps molest our thigh-muscles. After three miles our guide shows us some interesting, huge pitcher plants. Many kinds of rainforest and vegetation make this area a very special place on earth.

Laban Rata Rest house (11.150 ft) is reached after 5 hours of hard labor. It's a very nice place with an excellent panorama from the restaurant and it looks a bit like an Austrian or Swiss mountain resort. The impressive granite rocks of Kinabalu silence us.
At 3 PM it starts raining. We share a room with six. It's cold and we need our warm clothes. Rooms can be heated but we prefer not to use it, because our bodies need to adjust to the climate.
At 8 PM we try to get some sleep, because the trek to the top starts at 3 AM.

Day two :
2.15 AM : Rise, hearty meal, dress warm and GO !
The cold might have been worse. A procession of 40 hikers and 40 little lights is heading for the Kinabalu top. Rocks are slippery and steep but ropes are always present to hold on to, nevertheless the trip should not be underestimated. Good flashlights are necessary, darkness is black as ink. When approaching the top it gets icy-cold and we need extra clothing to make it bearable.

5 AM : Arrival at Low's Peak (the top). We are much too early and the sun keeps us waiting for a while. Everybody ensconces themselves between the rocks, waiting for the relieving warmth of the first sun-beams. Slow but sure the Kinabalu peaks contrast with the gray sky : St. John's Peak, Ugly Sister's Peak and Donkey's Ears. The sky becomes overcastted visibly and it's getting clear that we won't be able to behold the beautiful red sunrise. Suddenly the majority of people wants to descend as soon as possible. This gives us the opportunity to breath and to take some nice pictures. The return-journey is fast but without a walking stick it could be a tough day for the poor knees.
9.15 AM : Back in Laban Rata, several cups of hot chocolate milk perform miracles.
1 PM : End of trekking. For 1 RM you can get your 'diploma' at the headquarter. It says :
"This is to certify that .... has climbed to Low's Peak, the Summit of Mount Kinabalu, (4.101m), highest mountain in South East Asia, on .... "
Proud, satisfied and exhausted we go to sleep...
Next morning, a nice American who lives here for more than 10 years, offers us a lift back to Kota Kinabalu. He owns a more expensive motel in Kundasang, a small village close to the park. We are dropped right in front of our Bilal-hotel...lucky us!

We decide to stay in KK for two more days and it's time for souvenir-hunting ! Most of my souvenirs I find at the Philippine Market : beautiful shell-art, hats and all sorts of handicrafts.
Books and more expensive quality stuff can be found at the Wisma Merdeka, a shopping center behind the Hyatt Hotel.
Our last but one day we spend at the isle of Manukan (Tunku Abdul Rahman Park). In spite of the unstable weather conditions it's a successful relaxing day. The crystal-clear water offers some fascinating marine life and tropical corals.
Our last evening-meal is taken in the Sedco Complex and for once we don't mind our financial status. The large assortment of fresh fish, crab, lobster, shells, etc...is unsurpassable and still payable.
...and before we even realize we are back in the middle of reality... the dream is over.

This is the End...