Sarawak en Sabah

© Dirk Deckx (1995)

9. UNCLE TAN (SANDAKAN)

This experienced man of fifty has become a living legend among the backpackers and his name is rightly mentioned in most travel books. Uncle Tan can arrange everything for you, nothing's impossible. His prices are unbeatable and he only works with low-budget travelers.
Uncle Tan and his right-hand Tommy are praised in several foreign magazines. People who decide to stay at his place should phone him several days in advance in order to make sure there's a room available because many trekkers are interested in his tours and his guesthouse is often full (Tel. 089/531639).

Comfortable aircon busses to Sandakan leave at 8 AM in KK. The trip takes 6,5 hours, incl. lunch in Ranau, and costs 20 to 25 RM. Every driver knows Uncle Tan's address and you'll be dropped right in front of his guesthouse.
We are welcomed by Susan, the active and jovial assistant of Tan. Tea, coffee and hot self-made cake are waiting for us. Immediately we start discussing all possibilities. That same evening we decide to leave for Tan's new settlement on Pulau Libaran, a fishermen's island close to Turtle Island. Worse news is that Tan cannot guarantee a permit for this Turtle Island because the bigger and more expensive tour operators already bought most of the available permits for the rest of the year. On one night the Turtle Island only admits 15 people.
We will spend two nights on Pulau Libaran and await what's going to happen. The entire tour costs 180 RM p/p, incl. all transportations, accommodation (2 nights), permit for Turtle Island, meals and coffee-breaks.
Transport to the river takes 45 minutes. The trip from the river to open sea brings us through primary forest and mangroves and takes about 30 minutes.

Pulau Libaran :

Accommodation in basic but clean wooden huts at the beach surrounded by palm trees. There's no electricity (except generator until 10 PM). Meals are served on a big table and are common. Ice cooled beverages, also beer, are to be paid separately. Staff is very nice and helpful, with Tommy as the leading figure.
At night (9.30 PM) they organize a beach walk. At this time giant crabs, hidden in the brushwood, can be observed.
After the walk, a cool breeze and a mosquito-net see to a perfect sleep.
Next day we visit the fishermen's village. It's a pleasant experience, the locals are very cheerful and hospitable. It's a pity though that the beach is polluted by rusty cans, glass pots, bottles, plastic bags, etc... It's not a good idea to go for a swim here. At low tide one can search for beautiful shells.
But still a visit to Pulau Libaran is superfluous if you can't see the giant turtles on Turtle Island. In case there's no permit available, you'd better spend your time on other things because boredom strikes fast.
In the late afternoon, they bring us the dismaying news that there are no more permits left for Turtle Island. It's not Uncle Tan's fault. As mentioned before, the big tour operators try to buy all available permits at once. They even bribe the officials of the Sabah Parks Office in Sandakan who are responsible for the issue. Bad luck !! Tan makes up for us by paying back a part of the amount.

Uncle Tan's Wildlife Camp :

...is situated at the banks of the Kinabatangan river and is a real must for nature- and animal lovers ! Here you are most certainly given the opportunity to see some rare birds, among which the famous Hornbill and the Kingfisher. Also the very rare Proboscis Monkeys live here and are very easy to observe.
A two nights stay is a minimum because there's a lot to experience along the trails through the jungle. Take your time though, with some patience and especially silence, you'll be able to watch the wildlife.
The boat trip to Tan's Wildlife Camp takes an hour and the surroundings make you forget your tortured bottom. With a telelens or telescope you may see some monkeys, birds and sometimes crocodiles along the banks.
The camp is very primitive. There's no electricity nor running water and the bath-room is nothing more than some metal casks filled with brown-colored water that's taken from the nearby lake on a regular base with a generator pump. Guests sleep in small wooden huts with only two mattresses and a mosquito-net (with holes in it !). The toilet is also a wooden construction and a possible hiding place for scorpions. Nevertheless the atmosphere in the camp is very cozy and peaceful. Several young guys (camp staff) are responsible for the welfare of the guests. Some of them offer their services as a guide, free of charge, but of course some tips are appreciated.
The territory encloses several lakes in the middle of thick jungle, and it's accessible along a net-work of small, sometimes difficult paths. These paths are marked, a guide is not necessary.

The wildlife camp is no zoo ! Here are some spotted species of animals:
orang-outang, mouse deer, bearded pig, kingfisher, hornbill, some herons, eagle, woodpecker, otter, squirrel, civet cat, crocodile, proboscis monkey, chameleon, Borneo Gibbon, etc... With a bit of patience and caution one could meet these animals. Of course a telelens or binocular turns out to be very useful here.
After the walk take a nap in one of the hammocks in front of our hut.
Also very interesting is a jungle night walk...with guide ! Armed with a strong flashlight he traces the treetops, trunks and brushwood for birds or other animals. Many birds sleep at eye level and, caught in the light, they can be easily observed. The glittering eyes of a mouse deer somewhere in the bushes grabs our attention and our guide asks for perfect silence. The small animal is petrified and step by step we can approach. Thanks to the experienced guides we learn to pay attention to small details and it gives us a different image of jungle life. The sight of these young boys is really phenomenal.
The climate is sometimes hard to bear. Air humidity is extreme and gives our sweat-glands a hard time.

Several rowing-boats are available, free of charge. Once we're on the lake a different world opens. Total silence is necessary when approaching the banks. Only this way, we are able to see some extraordinary animal life, especially birds (kingfishers, snake-birds and herons). The lake is a great place for relaxing, there's only the silence and the sounds of the forest.
To see the rare Proboscis Monkey, we ask one of the boys to be our guide because the path to the furthest lake is not so easy to find. The monkeys don't like the sunlight, that's why they only show themselves when the sky is clouded or at sunset. When conditions are OK, they suddenly appear...lots of them ! To get a close view, we have to cross the lake (there's another boat, hidden in the bush). The guide tells us to pay special attention to swaying treetops, this betrays the presence of a group of Proboscis Monkeys. Again a telelens or telescope are necessary here, otherwise we would only see some vague silhouettes.

Sepilok Orang Utang Rehabilitation Center :

Once back in the camp, Uncle Tan arranges fast transport to Sepilok. In this reserve, tame Orang Utangs, who were being kept in imprisonment for years, are trained for a life in the forest again. This process takes years and is divided into different sections. Two feeding-platforms are accessible for public, namely platform A and B. The apes on platform A are still tame and need to train their climbing techniques. They are fed at 9.30 AM and 2.30 PM. Visitors who want to go to platform B need to go to the reception first to register, because only 15 are admitted.

The Orangs here are almost completely adjusted to the forest-life and they might react a bit shy in the presence of 'foreign' visitors. Because of the natural surroundings, best pictures are shot here.
Entrance fee to the park is 10 RM. It's closed at noon.
At the reception they can show an interesting video on demand about birth and operation of the reserve.

When we return in Tan's guesthouse, Susan takes care of our dirty laundry, while we take some rest and sit on talking about our adventures (what a love of ease!).
Staying in Tan's guesthouse demands for some adaptability because the cottages are very basic and water is not always available. Mosquito's are very aggressive in Sabah, so we need lots of repellent and a good net. In spite of our precautions we receive plenty of bites. There are really more mosquito's to fight here than in the forest. Also the tough climate sometimes causes our mood to sink below O. However, Susan is a wonderful woman who always makes her guests laugh. She's a walking computer, can arrange everything in a matter of minutes and cooks deliciously. At Uncle Tan, nothing is impossible, here they can arrange all traveling wishes and keep it payable.
Special tours are possible, for example, a jungle survival training or a tour for the birdwatcher...
These special tours should be arranged earlier, by fax or telephone :
Uncle Tan, P.P.M. Elopura, 90000 Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia (Tel + Fax : 089/531639)