ROLWALING and KHUMBU via Trashi Labsta (18.887 ft)

© Dirk Deckx (1994)

11. TREKKING...Day 13 and 14

Day 13 (Oct 30 - '94) : Kabug - Trashi Labsta Base Camp

*Minimum temperature tonight : - 13.5°C.
The cold tonight is unbearable, our sleeping-bags offer insufficient protection against the frosty temperatures. Inside our tents we measure -8°C. All three of us repeatedly wake up because of the cold. I also have to contend with ear-aches and palpitations of the heart.
Next morning Wim tells us that he hasn't been able to sleep for one minute and his clinical picture unfortunately did not improve. It means that it would be senseless and dangerous to continue the journey, that's why he wisely decides to return to Kathmandu in the company of one of the kitchen-boys. The boy will carry the necessary equipment and provisions.
It's hard to say goodbye under these circumstances but we'll meet in Kathmandu in about 8 days (hopefully!).
John and I continue, but we both know that, because of our low-quality sleeping-bags, we won't make it either when the temperature on the summit indeed drops to 20° below 0. The next hike is the most tiring until now. We first have to cross the impressive and 'dry' 'Trakarding' glacier, which we can see already in the far distance. From a distance it looks a mere trifle for us, but we would soon experience how wrong we are.

The glacier is covered with thousands of sharp rocks, stones, sand-heaps and ice-walls. Between these obstacles we have to map out a safe route. A serious concentration is required when you don't wand to end with a broken leg or a sprained ankle. Climbing, descending, zigzagging and balancing between countless rocks, that's our only worry for several hours. After this my boots will have had their day.
Although the glacier is only 1,5 mls long, the 'trip' takes more than 5 endless and tough hours. The base of Trashi Labsta looms up in the distance but we're only approaching very slowly.
High, vertical rock-faces are situated at both sides of the glacier. Because of a combination of freezing and thawing, falling rock is the danger most often encountered and we try to cross diametrical.
The thin air is a real problem and sucks away the energy in my tortured body. Lucky for us, the headaches stay away and for the moment we don't experience any symptoms of altitude illness. This journey is a real tough one, every step sucks all oxygen from my lungs. It's intensely difficult and I did not expect this... the briefing before the start was clearly much too concise and too indistinct, a minus for Asian Trekking. It's very important for potential customers to know what they're up to because a satisfying physical condition is not enough. You also need a healthy mental condition to succeed such a long and difficult journey.

After 7 hours of suffering and drudging we finally arrive at Trashi Labsta's base camp. The camp-ground doesn't look particularly romantic : rocks, stones, ice... Our companions do their best to flatten the underground.
Four porters are troubled with headaches and we give them some aspirin.

It's a wild environment in which we witness several small and bigger avalanches. Once the sun starts to disappear it suddenly freezes 4° below 0 and I immediately look for shelter in my sleeping-bag. That night we are served in our tents and the hot garlic-soup performs miracles. I don't leave the tent anymore except for a number one.
The idea that we have to sleep on glacier-ice and the knowledge that glaciers are always on the move, doesn't comfort me. At night we hear crunching sounds coming from the ice below us and occasionally the roaring of an avalanche. Nature clearly rules here .
While I'm waiting the coming sleep I can't resist thinking of my cozy room at home, my dog, my TV and a hot cup of coffee... Many don't understand why we want to be so foolish to pay more than 1.500 $ for a trip through hell. But it's the challenge, the pure, unspoiled and breathtaking beauty of nature, the silence of the mountains, the chance to get to know yourself... this is Nepal at its best !

Summary day 13 (Kabug - Trashi Labsta Base Camp)

Day 14 (Oct 31 - '94) : Trashi Labsta Base Camp - Summit

*Minimum temperature tonight : - 11.2°C.
The freezing cold nested itself into the deepest places of my backpack and my boots. Fortunately I always keep my socks and gloves with me in the sleeping-bag so that they're comfortably warm in the morning.
The night was OK and now we're ready for the feared and much discussed Trashi Labsta, which is now right in front of us. Once we start the climb there's no way back. The biggest danger is the fact that we have to ascend more than 2.900 feet in one time and this is pretty much taboo at this altitude. But there's no alternative because on the way up, there's no possibility to camp out.
The pass carries many names : 'Tashilapcha' or 'Tesi Labsta' and makes it possible to travel from Rolwaling to Khumbu.
Here is a quotation from Stephen Bezruchka's book 'Trekking in Nepal, a traveler's guide' (page 311) :

«There are no villages or shelters along the way and the route is dangerous even in the best of conditions...
Storms are to be expected, and food for at least five days should be carried in order to be able to wait out bad weather. Temperatures below freezing are always encountered...
Many people have died attempting this crossing, but competent, well-equipped parties should have little trouble...
You must be very aware of the hazards of rapid ascents to altitude and of hypothermia. There are no quick escape routes, especially on the Rolwaling side of the pass, should altitude illness become serious.»

The terrain is subjected to landslides and avalanches but nevertheless this is no reason to avoid it. If these were daily catastrophes, the Nepalese government would never permit tourism in this area.
Falling rock and ice can be seen every day but the routes are chosen in such a way that the chances of getting a stone on your head are very small.
Being used to snow-boots and crampons is certainly an advantage because they are needed for climbing very steep and high ice-walls, but for me it was the first time.

Some clouds appeared tonight and caused temperatures to rise a little bit. The route is extremely steep and I am glad that I have my ice-axe with me.
The reasonable horizontal 'Drolambo' glacier offers us a chance to recuperate a little bit. We get the impression that we're on a strange planet. The ice is shaped capriciously and it's sometimes difficult to maintain balance. The environment is wonderful, rustic and relaxing and lets us forget the extreme fatigue.
After a while the air turns ominously gray and Pasang tells us that it might start snowing. This is the worst thing that can happen to us here. Snow means danger, crevasses get covered with snow and become invisible pitfalls. Without an experienced guide, it's easy to loose track when the trail is no longer visible.
And yes, a few hours later we feel the first snow-flakes falling down on our noses and we pray for a safe journey to the camping-ground.

While ascending I feel the headache coming up and my physical condition gets worse visibly. After the glacier we're up against an incalculable plain of snow and it's exactly on this spot that I collapse. The stinging headache becomes unbearable and I have to rest after every step. I can't go on anymore, exhaustion is total and longer periods of rest bring no relief. Every minute I fall down on my knees, gasping and totally destroyed. Pasang stays with me and tries to keep up my courage. He takes over my camera-bag and backpack and this leaves me only with my ice-axe. The water in the bottle is not drinkable anymore. It has become so icy-cold that it tears my guts apart.
Stumbling, coughing and completely out of breath I reach the camp where all tents are already pitched... against a tremendously high and crumbling rock-face. Slow but sure the tents get covered with snow... I don't care anymore and pull back in my tent with 39° fever... one thing is sure... I won't be able to climb 'Parchamo' tomorrow.
John, who doesn't appear tired at all, dreams of climbing above 19.500 ft for several years. Let's hope the bad weather doesn't spoil his dream.

Tonight I only manage to do one thing... drink several hot soups with lots of garlic in it ! And it really seems to work because I fall asleep immediately. Lucky for me, tomorrow morning we have to descend more than 3.200 ft, the only possible cure for altitude sickness.

Summary day 14 (Trashi Labsta Base Camp - Summit)