ROLWALING and KHUMBU via Trashi Labsta (18.887 ft)

© Dirk Deckx (1994)

13. TREKKING... Day 17 en 18

Day 17 (Nov 3 - '94) : Khumjung - Tengpoche)

Today we hope to meet 'Mount Everest' in 'Tengpoche', a famous tourist place from where most important Khumbu-trekkings start.
First we descend about 1.600 ft in the direction of Phunki and immediately after that we have to ascend again 2.000 ft to Tengpoche. It's very hot and I take my time, John is already far gone. We left our luggage at Pasang's place. On top of the hill lies Tengpoche and its monastery, a place still under construction. There are lots of lodges and a big camping-ground totally full with tents. No wonder, October and November are the most important months for Nepal and everybody wants to see Everest.
Yes indeed, from here you get a magnificent view on the Everest mountain range, among which Lhotse, Lhotse Sar and Nuptse, the highest mountains in the world.

We just manage to find a place in the 'Himalayan View Lodge', owned by Pasang's sister. There's more than enough comfort and they sell sweets, beer and soft drinks. It's not exactly cheap, for a piece of chocolate (Mars) we had to pay 80 Rp and a bottle of beer (650 ml) costs 170 Rp.
I go crazy when I hear that you can take a hot shower here and I'm not loosing any more time because my hair is standing right up. The shower room is outside and is nothing more but a wooden shed, but the water is just divine !! But Nepal wouldn't be Nepal when nothing goes wrong... the moment I finish soaping my body the jet of water stops abruptly. So there I am... naked and shivering (it's cold out there!).

Five lodges are available in Tengpoche and they're all completely full. You sleep in a room with six without any comfort but at least there's a roof above your head and it doesn't freeze in there. It can be quite cozy when you meet the right people.
The monastery has nothing to offer, so our visit takes only a few minutes.
In the evening everybody turns his nose in the direction of... Mount Everest, which is colored red by the setting sun. It's more than worth waiting for this moment and with a telelens you can achieve brilliant results.

Summary day 17 (Khumjung - Tengpoche)

Day 18 (Nov 4 - '94) : Tengpoche - Khumjung

Today we'll choose an alternative route to return to Khumjung, namely via 'Phortse'. We have to descend 2.000 ft and then ascend the same 2.000 ft again. During the last three weeks our condition has certainly improved a lot.
This route is really recommended because you'll see several nice views like for example of 'Ama Dablang' and other unknown but also breathtaking sharp Himal peaks, without running across too many tourists.
Around three we arrive back in Khumjung. This time, as promised, we are offered a private room in the house of Pasang's brother who is temporary not at home. When the cat's away...
It's far from warm inside and when the evening falls the thermometer shows +6°C. Pasang brings in wood and dried yak-droppings, which is frequently used by the locals as a cheap alternative for wood. It does not stink and it glows after extinction (for a real long time). One disadvantage though, a thick smoke screen fills the room.

I can't help thinking of our struggle with nature and long for Kathmandu and its cozy little restaurants and shopping-streets. When everything is OK, Wim should arrive their today.

Summary day 18 (Tengpoche - Khumjung)