ROLWALING and KHUMBU via Trashi Labsta (18.887 ft)

© Dirk Deckx (1994)

5. START TREKKING ...Day 1 and 2

Day 1 (Oct 18 - '94) : Kathmandu - Barabise - Khartali

Bus to BARABISE (2.723 ft) at exactly 7 AM. It's about 60 mls from Kathmandu (4.266 ft) and a 5-hour drive. The complete crew and equipment is also on board. There are 12 porters, 1 sardar (guide), 1 chief-cook, 2 kitchen-aids and one extra guide.
The route takes us through beautiful green valleys along the 'Sun Kosi' river. Our hike will start in Barabise, where all equipment and provisions will be split into several packs and assigned to the porters. The average weight carried by a porter is about 35 kg but some take double loads to receive double wages.
From here we say goodbye to the busy, noisy world and the chaotic traffic for 21 days. Our destination is Khartali at 5.241 ft, but we're not there yet... first we will have to face a long and tough climb under the hot midday sun. My physical condition was OK... for European standards, but it's getting clear to me that things are quite different here... 8-P
It will surely take a while before our bodies and muscles will be adjusted to these abnormal strains. But all in all, the magnificent scenery sees to it that our optimism does not fade away.
John has an expensive altimeter 'Eschenbag Alpin-El', which can provide quite useful information like the exact number of ascended and descended feet, the correct altitude, durations and air-pressure.

All results are written down in a table below every daily report.
(Altimeter Eschenbag Alpin-El)

4.30 PM : Pitching the camp in Khartali, the kitchen boys are already busy with preparing the foods and cooking water.
The village consists of three wooden huts and the nosey children soon approach our camp, laughing and giggling. The light of the setting sun creates a very special and pleasant atmosphere. Together with the sun the temperature drops to +12° C.
The porters arrive later on. They also carry our big backpacks with clothing and all necessary things. During the day we only carry a small backpack with the essential daily things like water, sunburn lotion, insect repellent, rain-clothes, extra pullover, gloves,... Chocolate may help to keep the energy high, because journeys like this one swallow lots of body-energy, especially around noon).
Other superfluous things stay with the porters and are not available during the hike.
Pitching the tents is just a matter of minutes for our experienced guides. Beside our sleeping-tents there is also a dining- and toilet-tent. All camping equipment is included in the price : tents, sleeping-bags and -mattresses, cookery-utensils and food. Extra climbing-stuff should be rented in Kathmandu.
Every day we receive our afternoon tea and biscuits. Supper is around 6 PM. Today we have rice, sweet potatoes, lentil sauce, apples, bananas, salad and soup. There's always safe (boiled) drinking-water, tea, coffee, milk and hot chocolate. It's unbelievable to see how the kitchen boys work themselves to death to please a bunch of spoiled tourists.
8.30 PM : into the tents...

Summary day 1 (Barabise - Khartali)

Day 2 (Oct 19 - '94) : Khartali - Dolangsa

*Minimum temperature tonight : + 9.3°C
6.00 AM : 'Wake up, Sir !' It's our guide bringing us a cup of tea and a bowl hot water. The sleeping-bag was warm and comfortable. We have more than enough time to pack our backpack for the porters and thirty minutes later breakfast is ready. After several cups of tea, an omelet and toast we are ready to start a new day.
The trip starts at 7.30 AM. This morning schedule looks almost the same every day.
The path to Dolangsa gives us the idea that we are in Austria or Switzerland. The Himalaya peaks are still far away and for now still invisible because of the surrounding green hills. Our sardar (guide and responsible for the entire trekking) is called Pasang Nuru and turns out to be a very modest and simple man. He's always ready for a conversation although his knowledge of the English language is rather faulty. Pasang is responsible for porters and kitchen-boys, guarantees their payments and purchase of supplies. He's assisted by a second Sherpa, Kami, who will only accompany us for a few days. If everything goes well, he will be relieved by a climbing sherpa who, at the moment, still accompanies another group.

The rest of the hike is rather easy and at last we may enjoy a long and refreshing descent among the trees which provide some cool shady spots. In the day-time a T-shirt and cotton pants or shorts is more than enough because we sweat heavily. It's very important to drink a lot in order to prevent heat illness or heat stroke. I was given the opportunity to discover what such a heat stroke feels like... Even if you're not feeling thirsty you have to swallow LOTS OF water. There are plenty of possibilities to refill drinking-bowls with cold tea or water (if necessary you can take water from the rivers and use water purifying tablets).
After sunset it's getting pretty cold and I have to wear a pullover for the first time. They serve us delicious hot soup, followed by mashed potatoes with spring-rolls and sausages. A nice and nutritious meal is indispensable for the success of our journey. Nepalese and spicy specialties are avoided to prevent possible diarrhea. Especially at higher altitudes this could become very dangerous... that's why we use meals on a western base. The variety of food is really incredible. The biggest part is carried away from Barabise because on the way there are almost no possibilities to purchase supplies. The mountain-people are very independent and don't need shops.

Summary day 2 (Khartali - Dolangsa)