ROLWALING and KHUMBU via Trashi Labsta (18.887 ft)

© Dirk Deckx (1994)

6. TREKKING... Day 3 and 4

Day 3 (Oct 20 - '94) : Dolangsa - Rupthang

*Minimum temperature tonight : + 4°C.
Ear-aches and rapid breathing prove that we have to take it easy from now. We can feel the altitude already. For a short moment we have to climb up to 10.909 ft in order to cross 'Tinsang La'. From this top we are able to see the first 'serious' peak... mighty and sacred 'Gauri Shankar' (23.449 ft), but unfortunately we have to descend again after taking some pictures. It's not advisable to ascend too much in a short time, our bodies need time to adjust.

Summary day 3 (Dolangsa - Rupthang)

Day 4 (Oct 21 - '94) : Rupthang - Chilanka

*Minimum temperature tonight : + 5.7°C.
We are not more than 8 miles away from the Tibetan border and we have the opportunity to visit the Tibetan convent 'Bigu Hanpa'.
A small but steep detour is necessary but it's worth the effort because of the authenticity of the building and it's occupants. This Buddhist sanctuary is populated by about 60 hospitable nuns. We are invited for a cup of tea, prepared with butter, salt and herbs. It's not really a delicacy but it's the gesture that counts isn't it ?

At about 10 AM I start to suffer from a heat-injury. All energy in my body is melting away, every step is based on will-power and it's getting difficult to maintain my balance. Cause of this set-back is the lack of liquids... in 3 hours I only drank about 1 liter of water.
During the next break (at noon), I swallow enormous quantities of tea in the hope that my condition will soon improve. After an hour or two it's getting better but once in the camp I immediately disappear in my tent. The clinical thermometer measures 38.5° C and I take a fever-preventing tablet. At 6 PM the fever is gone and I even eat with relish. Only now I realize how important and live-saving water can be, even if I'm not thirsty.

Summary day 4 (Rupthang - Chilanka)