ROLWALING and KHUMBU via Trashi Labsta (18.887 ft)

© Dirk Deckx (1994)

3. KATHMANDU AND AROUND

Okt 15 - '94
From the roof of our hotel we are offered a chance to see some white Himalayan-peaks in the far distance, contrasting with the bright blue sky. The view over the city and the valley is magnificent.
From Thamel we walk about one hour to the famous 'Swayambunath' temple, a gigantic building where the mysterious eyes of Buddha attract our attention. The temple is on top of a hill and we have to climb lots of steps to reach our destination. The view over the valley and the white peaks in the distance take our last breath away.
People sing and dance around the temple to celebrate the end of the monsoon and the start of the good times. There's quite some activity in this chaotic but cozy atmosphere.

After our visit to Swayambunath we decide to explore the city itself. Kathmandu is poor and rubbish-dumps are everywhere in the streets. In spite of this I find the city pleasant and charming, also because of the numerous souvenir shops, restaurants and pubs. Especially Thamel, Patan and Durbar Square receive a special place in my heart. I buy a small hand-made carpet for 80 $. Wim spends his money on clothing and equipment for the approaching trekking. Chances of finding his backpack again in time are getting very small.
There are lots of snug restaurants but, without any doubt, one of the best is 'Helena's'. Here they sell the country's best cakes and biscuits. For those who like tall travel-stories and -contacts this is the place to be ! Food is delicious and cheap but it's necessary to come in time because it can get very crowded, especially mornings and evenings.

Once back in the hotel we find out that a third Belgian, named John, wants to join us on trekking. Even more unexpected news is that the agency composed a crew of at least 19 people (porters, guides, kitchen-staff).
It's our intention to cross the notorious and dangerous 'Trashi Labsta' (18.887 ft) via Rolwaling valley. From this pass we plan to climb 'Parchamo Peak' (20.265 ft). After this struggle we would reach the beautiful Khumbu valley.

Okt 16 - '94
Briefing in the Asian Trekking office : good and friendly reception.
They take our passports in order to arrange the necessary trekking- and climbing-permits.

In the afternoon we plan to visit a carpet-factory and therefore we enter one of many carpet-shops in the city and ask the owner whether it's possible to visit his factory. Of course most of them are very willing to accompany foreigners. We only pay for the taxi and thirty minutes later we arrive in a small and quiet country-village of which I don't know the name. The factory is nothing more than a wooden shed where three or four young boys (children) work on one carpet. It's a very monotonous and lengthy job and to finish a middle-sized piece they need more than one month. It's interesting to know how such a carpet is made so that you don't buy a pig in a poke. Not all carpets are of the same good quality on the city-markets.

After this interesting experience the taxi-driver drops us right in front of 'Bodnath' temple, the biggest stupa in Nepal. The immense, snow-white dome contrasts with the bright blue sky and the penetrating red, yellow and blue eyes of Buddha make the whole very attractive (photographers!). Even for the ones who don't like temples, Bodnath is a real must, also because of the magnificent views on the Kathmandu-valley and some Himal-peaks that are offered from the roof.

From Bodnath it's possible to hike to 'Pashupatinath' or 'Monkey Temple' through rural villages and rice-fields (take a map) but there's more here than just a temple. The Hindu-complex is situated at the banks of the sacred 'Bagmati' and is a place of pilgrimage. Pilgrims bathe in the river to purify body and soul. Several cremation-tables are placed along the banks and usually there are one or more cremations in progress. The locals don't like camera's but with a telelens and with due observance of some elementary rules of discretion some valuable results may be achieved.
The Hindu's believe that dying and being cremated along the banks of the Bagmati puts an end to the cycle of re-births so that they can enter the 'Nirvana' at last.
Time passes quickly when we walk about this giant complex accompanied by several brown monkeys.